Beautiful and colorful shrines and temples in the forest

Nikkō (日光) is a town most famous for Toshogu Shrine (東照宮), Japan’s most lavishly decorated shrine that features the famous Three Wise Monkeys carving.

A trip to Nikko can be done as a one day trip from Tokyo. The famous temples and shrines are clustered together about 2 kilometers from the train stations. There are other attractions in the Nikko Park area that would require a one or two night stay.

With a good connection, it takes less than two hours by Shinkansen and the JR Nikko line from Tokyo station for JR Pass holders. It can be reached from Asakusa by Tobu railways and limited JR express trains from Shinjuku station in a little over two hours.

The Shrines and Temples of Nikko is an UNESCO World Heritage site that encompasses a little over 100 buildings and structures. The oldest structure Rinnō-ji (輪王寺) was established in 766 AD. The village of Nikko started few years after its establishment.

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Started my trip at Gotanda early in the morning. I chose to stay at the Tokyu Stay hotel near this station. I took the Yamanote line to Tokyo station. The ride took about 20 minutes. At Tokyo station, I did transfer to the Shinkansen tracks for the next train towards Utsunomya. My shinkansen was coupled to the one that was heading towards Yamagata. After a 50 minute ride, I arrived at Utsunomiya station.

From Utsunomiya I did tranfer to the Nikko Line. I got into the IROHA train set that is themed on autum leaves and gives a feeling on riding a train from the past, although it is a modern train. The tip took 40 minutes.

Nikko is one of the preferred places to visit during the autumn leaf season

I took the World Heritage loop bus. The daily pass did cost 600 yen, that is about the cost of 2 single rides. I rode all the way up to Futarasan shrine. It is easy to start from this point and walk back down hill. The stop name is “Taiyu-in Futarasan-Jinja mae”. It serves both Futarasan shrine and Taiyu temple.

Links to the Tobu bus official site and map.

I started by visiting Futarasan Shrine (二荒山神社, Futarasan Jinja). Entrance is free. There is a paid section to the left of the offering hall that allows access to a small forest garden with sacred trees. It also allows a close look to more halls, including the main hall. It is very peaceful despite the number of visitors.

I had the opportunity of hearing some kagura music while taking a break next to the Main Hall and the Ghost Lantern.

I recommend you to bring some bento and/or snack to eat during your visit as there are very few restaurants in the temples and shrines area. You will need to go back to the main road of the town to have something to eat.

Futarasan Shrine and Taiyu temple stands next to each other. The access to Taiyu-in (大猷院, Taiyūin) is through a gate guarded by two Nio statues.

I climbed two or three sets of stairs while enjoying the views of the pine trees and two beautiful structures, one known as the drum tower on the left and a second known as the bell tower on the right.

Then, I reached a second gate known as Yashamon Gate. Immediately after this gate, the third gate is at view. This gate is known as Karamon Gate or Chinese gate.

Then reached the Main and Praying halls. The buildings are connected by a corridor. They have a beautiful contrast of black and gold. The posts lacquered in gold are protected by polycarbonate plastic to prevent wear and tear from visitors.

There is a fourth and last gate named Koka-mon. After this gate is Tokugawa Iemitsu’s mausoleum. Unfortunately the access to the mausoleum section was closed on the day of my visit.

At the praying hall, there was a monk giving a presentation about the temple. But my Japanese was not good enough to catch all the details. Still got the idea about a dragon that protects the place.

I spend some minutes walking the area around the halls. Then, started my return stairs down. I stopped at the Nitenmon gate for some pictures.

Guards at Nitemon

I was back at the entrance of Taiyu temple. From here, I walked down the pedestrian path to Toshogu Shrine. It is about a 10-15 minute walk surrounded by high pine trees. At the entrance there is a beautiful five storied pagoda.

Toshogu Shrine (東照宮, Tōshōgū) is a lavishly decorated shrine complex with 10 or more buildings. They have beautiful wood carvings, plenty of golden leaf and billiant colors that usually are not found in other shrines in Japan.

Toshogu Shrine (東照宮, Tōshōgū) is the memorial to Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate, which ruled Japan from 1063 to 1868. Also known as the Edo period (江戸時代, Edo jidai)

Toshogu shire is the famous place of the Three Wise Monkeys carving: “see no evil, speak no evil, hear no evil”.

This shrine has elements from both Shinto and Buddhism. There are Torii gates (Shinto) and entrance gates (Buddhism). I noted this at the Yomeimon gate, a beautiful entrance gate in black, white and golden leaf that has a Komainu (lion-dog) on the inside (Shinto) and a Nio statues on the outside (Buddhism).

Instead of the usual fierce Nio that I have seen in other temples, there were guards that appeared to be peaceful. But in fact, they were ready with an arch at their hands and some arrows ready in their backs. The gate like the rest of the structures is loaded with plenty of colorful wood carvings.

It was common in Japan to have elements of worship of both religions at temples and shrines. This was until the Meiji era (1868-1912) when it was ordered to separate the religions. In the case of Nikko, the elements were so intermingled that it was impossible to completely separate them. Making this site unique as we can appreciate how it was in the past.

After Yomeimon gate, is the main shrine building. I contains a praying hall and the main hall in the back. It is dedicated to the spirit of Ieyasu. No pictures were allowed inside.

To the right of the main shrine, is the Sakashitamon Gate which features the famous Nemurineko (sleeping cat) wood carving. The decorations is complemented by beautiful carvings of birds and peacocks.

After this gate there is a long flight of stairs uphill to Tokugawa Ieyasu’s mausoleum. It is relatively austere, compared to the lavishly decorated buildings down stairs, but still a solemn and peaceful site in the woods.

I took a good rest here after a lot of stairs and walking. The fresh air, the smell of the trees and the chirping of the birds made the place feel very calm, inviting you to get lost on your thoughts. From here I started my walk back. Towards the Shinkyo bridge that marks the entrance to the temples and shrines. It is a beautiful wide pathway down hill were I could see more temples and shrines.

I spent so much time on the other places that I just could visit the outside of Rin-no-ji (輪王寺) temple for pictures on my way back. I was visiting in late February and the sun sets quickly.

Rinnō-ji (輪王寺) was established in 766 AD and it was the first temple established in what today is known as Nikko.

I found a fountain with some dragons and I did recall that the dragon was present in the shrines and temples. I took some pictures with different settings on the time of exposure trying to get a freeze of the water drops

Have you found things that appear to be random and then realize that is part of the symbols of the place you are just visiting?

I reached the side of the road, the Daiya river and the Shinkyo Bridge at sight. It is a beautiful traditional red bridge reserved to the emperor. Visitors cannot use it.

I followed the road and crossed the river. I was back at the main street of Nikko. On this side of the river there is a small Torii gate and shrine that marks the start of the bridge and the entrance to the shrines and temples.

I had the opportunity to check the upper level of the station. The older waiting room. It is elegant and spacious.

I boarded the IROHA back to Utsunomiya. My shinkansen back to Tokyo consisted of two sets coupled. The Tohoku shinkansen, with its distinctive green color, and the Akita shinkansen, in white and red.